Naturally Beautiful
In our quest to achieve society’s set standards of beauty, hair health can often take a backseat.
The traditional idea of beauty has always included long, silky hair, although different ethnicities have different hair textures, and individual hair types vary widely. A person’s hair can be straight, curly, wavy, thick, thin, dry, or oily.
Typically, a person has between fifty thousand to one hundred thousand hairs on their head. Out of these, about 100 to 150 hairs are lost daily. This becomes more noticeable after washing hair. Hair grows at a rate of about one to one and a half centimetres per month.
Natural hair, untouched by chemicals, is the healthiest and strongest. What we see are hair fibres. These fibres are produced in the bulbous hair follicles at the root of the hair. Because the cells in the follicle can grow hair. New hair can grow even if one breaks or falls out. Hair can regrow after falling out due to illness, pregnancy, or even chemotherapy.
The structure of hair
Hair fibres are composed of proteins (80%), lipids (5%), water (14%), and trace elements and metals (1%). Primarily, there are three layers in hair. The outer layer consists of a protein called keratin, which protects the hair and provides texture and shine. The middle layer, which is the largest and gives hair its elasticity and strength, contains melanin, the pigment that gives hair its colour. The innermost layer is called the medulla or marrow. At the root of the hair are glands that secrete an oily substance called sebum, which protects the scalp and maintains the health of hair by preventing friction, exposure to intense light, and bacteria.
Effects of Chemical Treatments on Hair
The most common chemical treatments for hair include dyeing, curling, straightening, botox, and various hairstyling techniques.
How Safe is Hair Dyeing?
Our hair naturally gets its colour from melanin, a pigment present in our hair. As we age, the amount of melanin decreases, and the colour of the hair changes. When the pigment is depleted, hair appears grey or white. The age at which hair turns grey depends on genetics and the individual’s health. Once hair turns grey, it cannot be turned black again with oil or medicine.
A variety of options, ranging from natural colours like henna and kohl to hundreds of shades of chemical dyes, are available today. Hair can be dyed at home or in salons. There are various types of dyes available, such as those that wash out after a single wash, those that last four to eight months but gradually fade, and permanent dyes. Some people prefer bleached white hair, while others prefer jet black or coloured hair.
Hair dye kits include one packet that contains the dye cream or chemical agent and one that has the developer, which is a stable hydrogen peroxide solution. These are mixed just before dyeing.
It is essential to follow the instructions on the dye kit carefully. These kits should be kept away from children due to potential allergies, eye irritation and skin sensitivity. Dyed hair needs proper care, and repeated dyeing can damage hair. Dye only the new growth instead of dyeing the entire hair repeatedly. Select the shade that complements your natural hair colour and personality.
Hair Straightening and Perming :
The artificial curling of hair is known as perming or waving. This process uses a perming lotion to soften the hair, which is then shaped using rollers. A fixing lotion is applied to hold the shape, making the hair rigid. This rigidity fades over time. For those with curly or wavy hair, straightening is an option. This process uses both heat and mechanical pressure. Hair does not tolerate these processes very well.
Use of Chemicals
Effects like spikes and styling make use of aerosol sprays, gels, creams, pomades, silicone, wax-based products, and serums. However, prolonged use can cause these chemical substances to accumulate in the hair, attracting dust and debris, leading to tangling. Incorrect and prolonged use can also cause hair to become dull and break. Flakes resembling dandruff may also appear. Therefore, these products should be used temporarily, appropriately, and as needed.
The Problem of Balding
The thinning of hair can be concealed using colored gels, mousses, sprays, and powders. Today, clusters and strands of hair that can be applied to specific areas of the head are available.
Wigs made of human hair look more natural but are expensive and require proper care. Synthetic wigs are easier to use but need to be replaced frequently.
When it comes to long-term solutions, micropigmentation is a process somewhat similar to tattooing, done over two to four sessions. Hair transplantation is a time-consuming and complex process that must be performed by a trained surgeon.
Choosing a Shampoo
Soap is harsh on your hair, which is where shampoo comes in. Shampoos contain soap-like ingredients that remove excess grease but also protective elements that prevent the hair from becoming too dry or frizzy. Various shampoos cater to the needs of normal, rough, delicate, dry, oily, or brittle hair. The chemical composition of shampoos is determined based on hair type.
Some shampoos are marketed as natural or herbal. These use plant-based ingredients like shikakai, reetha, aloe vera, and Brahmi. In many shampoos, these ingredients are present in minimal quantities, just enough to call them herbal. It is best to use these ingredients in their original form at home.
There is also a recent trend of using no-shampoo, also known as “no-poo”. Instead of shampoo, people use apple cider vinegar, tea tree oil, or wash their hair with only water to preserve the natural oils of the hair and avoid using chemicals. Low-poo shampoos, which contain minimal chemicals, are also available. However, there doesn’t seem to be much scientific research on the use of low-poo or no-poo products.
Before using a new shampoo, a patch test by applying a diluted shampoo on a small part of the skin is advised to check for allergies.
Benefits of Conditioner
Conditioners are available both with shampoo and separately. Conditioners form a thin coating on the hair strands, making them soft, easy to comb, and tangle-free. For hair that has been exposed to chemical treatments, the protective covering of the conditioner is necessary. Conditioner does not harm the scalp, but its function is not essential for the scalp either. Since conditioner does not have soap properties, there is no need to apply it to the roots of the hair. Hair oil acts as a natural conditioner. For dry hair, moderate use of oil is acceptable. However, hair growth, density, and hair regrowth are not related to oil.
When it comes to hair care, remember: natural is best. Acceptance of one’s appearance and personality, and confidence make one beautiful. Bald individuals are attractive too, just as those who proudly flaunt their naturally “salt and pepper look.”
Hair health also depends on a proper diet, stress management, thyroid gland secretions, immunity, genetics, and the daily care we take of our hair, as much as it depends on external factors. While dandruff or excessive hair fall can be taken care of by a specialist, daily care is our responsibility. The frequency of washing hair should be determined thoughtfully. Hair should not be tied so tightly that the roots are strained. Wet hair should not be combed.
Using simple tips that are easy to remember and execute, hair health can be maintained, and dependence on chemicals can be minimised.
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Dr. Rujuta Hadye
The author is a Professor and Head of the Department of Community Medicine at T.N. Medical College and B.Y.L. Nair Hospital, Mumbai.